Iwanai 岩内町
いわないちょう
Iwanai is an old Sea of Japan port at the western base of the Shakotan Peninsula. Herring made it rich, and a fire in 1954 burned about 80% of the town.123 Today visitors come for its seafood, its hot springs at the foot of Mt. Iwanai, and the art of Kida Kinjirō, the fisherman-painter who lived here all his life. The town also calls itself the root of Japanese beer, because wild hops were found here in 1871, and the birthplace of asparagus growing in Japan.4567
- Population (2020 Census)
- 11,648
- Area
- 70.6 km²
- District
- Iwanai District (岩内郡)
- Official website
- www.town.iwanai.hokkaido.jp
Known for
- Herring history. Iwanai was a senkoku-basho (千石場所, "thousand-koku ground"). Its herring fishery peaked around 1897–1907 and had disappeared by 1932.23
- Kida Kinjirō (木田金次郎). He was the fisherman-painter behind Arishima Takeo's 1918 novel Umare-izuru Nayami (生れ出づる悩み), and a museum in town is devoted to him.58
- Firsts. Wild hops were found here in 1871. The town calls itself the birthplace of asparagus growing in Japan (Kimobetsu makes the same claim; see Local specialties), and Hokkaido's first hydroelectric lighting came on here in 1906.673
- Iwanai Onsen (いわない温泉). It has two spring types. It placed 3rd nationally for "beautiful skin" in the 2024 Onsen General Election and won the Minister of the Environment Award in 2025.1617
- Seafood. Local products include tarako (pollock roe), kazunoko (herring roe) cured with Iwanai deep-sea water, and tatsukama, a winter-only kamaboko.15118
- The Raiden coast (雷電海岸). Known for Benkei's Sword-Hanging Rock and its sunsets, it lies in the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Kaigan Quasi-National Park.193
- Night view. The view from the Maruyama Observatory was certified as Japan Night View Heritage in 2018.20
Sights & activities
Nature & scenery
- Raiden coast (Route 229 toward Suttsu).
- Benkei's Sword-Hanging Rock (弁慶の刀掛岩) is the town's symbol. It is best photographed at sunset from the Arishima monument.19
- Benkei's Firewood Rock (弁慶の薪積岩) is nearby.55
- Wendomari (ウエンドマリ) is a parking area under sheer cliffs, just past the Raiden Tunnel. It hosted rock climbing at the 1989 national sports festival.56
- Maruyama Observatory (円山展望台). It looks over the town and the Shakotan Peninsula and has a free telescope.20 A trail nearby passes 33 Kannon statues carved in 1914.57
- Forest Park (森林公園) is open May–October.58 Iwanai Marine Beach reopened in 2024.59
Onsen
- Iwanai Onsen (いわない温泉, Maruyama). The springs come out at 42–47°C.4 There are two types:
- the bicarbonate "beautiful-skin water" (美肌の湯), at Iwanai Kōgen Hotel, Takashima Ryokan and Okaerinasai;
- the salty "warming water" (温まりの湯), at Sansan no Yu.4
- The onsen's website says no water is added or heated, but the tourism association notes that Kōgen Hotel adds water because the source is so hot.60
- Day bathing (2026).61
- Kōgen Hotel: 15:00–21:00, irregular closing days, ¥1,000.
- Okaerinasai: 10:00–21:00 (to 15:00 on Saturdays and days before holidays; closed the 2nd Tuesday, sometimes the 4th), ¥1,000.
- Sansan no Yu: 9:00–21:00, ¥600.
- Takashima Ryokan: overnight guests only. It ranked No. 1 nationally in the Onsen General Election's solo-travel category three years running.17
- RAIDEN RESORT & SPA at Iwanai (Notsuka 500): an 18-room hotel with seawater-origin hot-spring baths and spa treatments. The onsen site gave its grand opening as December 2025, and only hotel and spa guests can bathe.46162
- Closed. Raiden Onsen has no inns operating. Asahi Onsen, the setting of Minakami's Kiga Kaikyō, is closed indefinitely.6364
Museums & heritage
- Kida Kinjirō Museum of Art (Manda 51-3). 10:00–18:00. Closed Mondays and December–March. ¥600. It has a rooftop view.565
- Arai Memorial Museum of Art (Notsuka 505). It holds 267 Picasso prints. Closed Mondays and from mid-November to mid-April. ¥1,000.66
- Iwanai Local History Museum (Kiyozumi 5-3). Open early April to late November; closed Mondays. ¥300. Exhibits include a playable reed organ said to be the oldest made in Japan, Sōseki's family register, and late-Edo iron rails from the Kayanuma coal mine.67
- Gansuien (含翠園). A Japanese garden laid out in about 1904–14 for the merchant Umezawa Ichitarō, with a one-storey shoin-style house built around 1920. Open late April to early November; closed Mondays. Free. It was certified as a "Northern Landscape Heritage" (北の造園遺産) site on 1 July 2025.29
- Monuments.
Outdoor & seasonal activities
- Mt. Iwanai (岩内岳). Hiking with alpine flowers in spring and views of the Niseko peaks.21
- IWANAI RESORT. A center pair lift serves three beginner-friendly runs with views of the Sea of Japan and the Shakotan Peninsula; snowcat tours are available by reservation.27
- Iwanai Horse Village. Horse trekking, ¥3,240 for 30 minutes, by reservation.69
- Marine View auto campground. At night it looks out on the lights of squid boats.70
Food experiences
Roadside stations (Michi-no-Eki)
Iwanai (道の駅いわない)
- Location: Manda 47-4, Iwanai (岩内町万代47-4), on Prefectural Road 270 (Iwanai Port Line), where National Routes 229 and 276 split.168 It is in the Manda district by the port. The Kida Kinjirō Museum (Manda 51-3) and Kikōin temple (7 minutes' walk) are nearby.550 Mapcode 398 812 643.16
- Hours: 1 April–31 October, 9:00–18:00, open daily. 1 November–31 March, 9:00–17:00. From November to 20 April it is closed on Mondays (Tuesday if Monday is a holiday). Closed 31 December–3 January (the tourism portal says to 5 January).71721637 (As of September 2026; check before visiting.)
- Shops & products: The main building is the yacht-shaped guide center Taramaru-kan (たら丸館). Its shop sells:
- seafood products and sweets;
- farm produce and Taramaru goods;
- local sake made from Iwanai-grown rice, and craft beer.16
- Food: No restaurant is listed for the station itself. The food section of its official listing reads "in preparation".16 Sasaya Shokudō, near the station, serves salt tempura ramen,39 and the café Kōhī-en (珈琲苑) is right beside the station.36
- Facilities: Parking for 94 cars and 8 large vehicles, spread over several lots. The toilet building is across from Taramaru-kan and has warm-water bidet seats and an accessible toilet. Wi-Fi, credit cards and other cashless payment.1673 Whether the toilets are open 24 hours and whether there is EV charging could not be confirmed. There is no RV park at the station. Marine View auto campground, in the Maruyama area, is listed among nearby sights.16
- Notes:
- Registration. Registered 22 April 1993 (Hokkaido registration No. 14). The stamp can be pressed during opening hours.16
- Information center. The station serves as the "Iwanai i-Center" of the Shiribeshi information network, and more than 100,000 visitors a year come for information.37
- Events. Events are held on the square in front. In 2026 the "Ajimatsuri" beer garden ran from 19 to 22 September, with a light-truck market on Ekimae-dōri.74
- Redevelopment. The town is raising furusato nozei donations to redevelop the station.75
Getting there & around
- Rail. No railway runs through Iwanai. The JNR Iwanai Line closed in 1985. The nearest station is Kozawa (小沢) on the JR Hakodate Main Line, in Kyowa.8
- Buses. Buses leave from the Iwanai Bus Terminal:768
- Around town. The "Nottaline" loop bus (east and west loops) runs through town, and a shared taxi goes up to the Maruyama onsen and ski area.76859 There is a car rental a minute's walk from the bus terminal, and Kikōin temple lends bicycles for free.59 An electric three-wheeler rental service started in August 2026.77
- By car.
- Sapporo: about 1 hour 44 minutes (96.2 km) using expressways.
- Otaru: about 1 hour 13 minutes (60.5 km).
- New Chitose Airport: about 2 hours 4 minutes (138 km).
- Niseko: about 49 minutes on Route 276, or about 55 minutes on the scenic Niseko Panorama Line (Prefectural Road 66), which is closed in winter.
- Cape Kamui on the Shakotan Peninsula: about 1 hour.76
- Expressway. The Shiribeshi Expressway (後志自動車道) currently ends at Niki IC; the Yoichi–Niki section opened on 23 March 2025. The section on to Kutchan, including planned Kyōwa-Kita and Kyōwa ICs, is under construction.78
- Air and sea. The nearest airport is New Chitose. Ferries from Maizuru and Niigata land at Otaru.76
Practical tips
- When to go.
- Winter closures. Both art museums, the local history museum and Forest Park close for winter. The Niseko Panorama Line closes too, and the roadside station shuts on Mondays.56667587672
- Visitor information. Taramaru-kan (tel. 0135-63-1155) is run by the Iwanai Tourism Association.73
- Safety. Route 229 toward Raiden runs along cliffs and through tunnels.56 Drive carefully in winter. Mt. Iwanai and the Raiden range are brown-bear country, so carry a bell and check bear warnings before hiking (general advice).
More about Iwanai
At a glance
| Field | Details |
|---|---|
| Type | Town (町) |
| Subprefecture | Shiribeshi (後志総合振興局) |
| District | Iwanai District (岩内郡)8 |
| Population | 2020 Census: 11,648 (5,500 male, 6,148 female; 5,750 households), down 1,394 (−10.7%) from 13,042 in 2015.9 Town resident count: 10,392 (5,002 male, 5,390 female; 6,223 households) at the end of August 2026.10 |
| Area | 70.60 km² (GSI, 1 April 2026).11 The town gives the same figure.12 English Wikipedia's 70.64 km² is out of date.13 |
| Density | About 165 people/km² at the 2020 Census and about 147/km² in August 2026 (calculated from the figures above) |
| Municipal history | The town dates its founding to 1751, when an Ōmi merchant took over the Iwanai trading-post contract.3 Iwanai became a first-class town on 1 July 1900. On 1 April 1955 it merged with Shimano Village (島野村) to form the present town, which then had 26,242 people.3 |
| Neighboring municipalities | Kyowa (Iwanai District) and Rankoshi (Isoya District).8 Iwanai, Kyowa, Tomari and Kamoenai make up the Iwau (岩宇) area.8 |
| Symbols | Tree: Japanese rowan (ナナカマド). Flower: bush clover (ハギ). Both were chosen on 29 October 1980.314 Bird: none found. The town emblem dates from 16 February 1935. Its five outer rings read as "I-wa" (a pun on itsutsu no wa, "five rings"), and the shape inside is the character 内, so together they spell Iwanai.314 |
| Mascot | Taramaru (たら丸) is a walleye pollock with a twisted headband, black rubber boots and cod-roe lips. His birthday is 9 August 1985. He has a twin sister, Beniko (べに子, another word for cod roe), and a little brother, Pinsuke (ぴん助). A local clothing-shop owner designed him, and he was picked from many entries in a public contest.15 |
| Official website | https://www.town.iwanai.hokkaido.jp/ (tourism portal: https://www.iwanai-kanko.jp/) |
Name origin
The name comes from Ainu, but its meaning is disputed. The two main readings are iwaw nay (イワウナイ, "sulfur river") and iwa nay (イワナイ, "mountain river").8 The town tourism portal lists two more: iyau nay (イヤウ・ナイ, "stream where bear meat is dried") and ye-o-nay (イェ・オ・ナイ, "river with much pumice"). It also says Mt. Iwanai was probably named after the town.21 The name was fixed in its present form in 1869, when Ezo was renamed Hokkaido.3
History
- Jōmon period. The Iwanai Higashiyama Entō-doki site (岩内東山円筒土器文化遺跡) dates from the Early to Middle Jōmon. It was a stopping point for the Entō pottery culture as it spread north from Tōhoku along the Sea of Japan coast. It is a Hokkaido historic site, and its finds are a Hokkaido tangible cultural property.228
- Trading-post era. Japanese (Wajin) travel to the area is recorded from 1456.3 In 1751 Ebisuya (Okada) Yasaemon (恵美須屋岡田弥三右衛門), a merchant from Ōmi, took the trading-post contracts for Iwanai and Furuu (古宇). Iwanai counts this as its founding year. A stone in Manda marks the site of his unjōya (運上屋) trading house.323 Herring pound nets came into use around 1850–51. In 1857 a hot spring was found deep in the Raiden mountains; it later became Asahi Onsen.34
- Meiji boom. The contract system ended in 1869, when a Kaitakushi (colonial office) branch opened. In 1871 the American geologist Thomas Antisell found wild hops here and urged the Kaitakushi to grow them. This was a step toward the brewery that became Sapporo Breweries.36 Herring fishing peaked from about 1897 to 1907. Iwanai became a first-class town in 1900 and had 15,560 people by 1902.3
- Early 1900s. Iwanai Hydroelectric switched on Hokkaido's first hydroelectric lighting in 1906.324 On 4 May 1912 a storm wrecked more than 100 herring boats and killed 136 fishermen. The JNR Iwanai Line (14.9 km, from Kozawa) opened that November.325 In 1922 Dr. Shimoda Kikuzō planted asparagus here, the first in Hokkaido, and Japan Asparagus Co. (日本アスパラガス) was founded in 1924. From 1932 the herring disappeared.37
- Great Iwanai Fire, 26 September 1954. The fire broke out during Typhoon No. 15, the storm that also sank the ferry Tōya Maru. It burned 3,298 homes (80% of the town) and killed 35 people. About 1,500 of Kida Kinjirō's paintings were lost. The town was rebuilt within about three years.3265 Minakami Tsutomu based the fire in his novel Kiga Kaikyō (飢餓海峡) on this one.8
- Merger and after. Iwanai merged with Shimano Village on 1 April 1955. The Raiden area became part of the quasi-national park in 1963. Hot water was struck at the foot of Mt. Iwanai in 1974.3 The Iwanai Line closed in 1985. A ferry to Naoetsu ran from 1990 until it was suspended in 1999.38 The roadside station opened in 1993 and the Kida museum in 1994. Deep-sea water supply began in 2005.3
- Recent years. The ski area passed to a private operator for the 2017–18 season and became IWANAI RESORT.27 The Iwanai Brewery opened in 2022, 150 years after the hop discovery.28 The restored Gansuien garden reopened in 2024.29 On 17–18 May 2026 the whole town was without tap water after the Horonai River, its water source, turned muddy.30
Geography & climate
- Location. Iwanai lies at about 42°59′N, 140°31′E, where the western side of the Shakotan Peninsula meets the land. It faces the Sea of Japan, with the Niseko Range behind it.121 Seafood from the Sea of Japan and farm produce from the Iwanai Plain come together here, and neighboring Kyowa is a major farming area.31
- Mountains. Mt. Iwanai (岩内岳, 1,085.0 m) is the westernmost peak of the Niseko Range.21 Mt. Raiden (雷電山) is 1,211.3 m. Mt. Mekunnai (目国内岳) is listed at 1,202.3 m in town statistics and at 1,220 m in other references.128 The tourism portal gives Mt. Iwanai as 1,086 m.21
- Rivers and land use. The main rivers are the Notsuka (野束川, 11.6 km, a class-B river), the Unjōya (運上屋川, 12.0 km) and the Horonai (幌内川, 7.5 km). Forest covers 67.4% of the town and fields and paddies about 5.6%.12
- Coast and park. Southwest of the town, the Raiden coast is lined with cliffs and odd-shaped rocks. It lies within the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Kaigan Quasi-National Park (ニセコ積丹小樽海岸国定公園).83
- Climate. The town calls itself one of Hokkaido's milder places, with fairly light winter snowfall. The yearly high is usually around 32°C, the yearly low around −13°C, and the average about 10°C.14 Town records for 2020 show a mean of 10.7°C, a high of 34.8°C and a low of −12.5°C. The low in 2018 was −15.6°C.12 The weather station once called "Iwanai" (岩内) has been named "Kyōwa" (共和) since November 2008.32
Economy & industry
- Jobs. At the 2020 Census, 5,633 residents were working, down from 8,847 in 1995. About 3% worked in farming, forestry and fishing, 31% in construction and manufacturing, and 65% in services. Construction alone employed 1,173.33
- Fisheries. The Iwanai District Fisheries Cooperative landed 2,300 t worth ¥929 million in FY2021. Salmon led by value (572 t, ¥455 million), and sea cucumber was second (25 t, ¥178 million). By weight the largest catch was Atka mackerel (hokke, 833 t). The squid catch fell from 595 t in FY2018 to 167 t. Only 81 t was pollock, though Iwanai calls itself the birthplace of Hokkaido's pollock longline fishery.3315
- Farming. In 2021 the town had 348 ha of farmland, including 75.4 ha of rice (351 t), and 82 dairy cattle.33
- Deep-sea water. Water is drawn from 300 m deep, 7.8 km offshore, and used in cosmetics, food and beer.3435
- Companies. They include Japan Asparagus Co., Mitsubishi Heavy Industries' Iwanai plant, and Kurashima Dairy (倉島乳業), whose factory is in Niki.8 Seafood processors make tarako, kazunoko, dried herring and kamaboko.36
- Tourism. More than 100,000 visitors a year use the roadside station's information center.37 The Maruyama Liaison Council (円山連携会議), a public-private group of local businesses, organizations and the town, launched the ONSEN JOURNEY® brand at a Sapporo event on 16 July 2026. It also announced a joint project with Tōyako Onsen in Toyako.1738
- Population. The population fell from 26,242 at the 1955 merger to 11,648 in 2020. In 2021 there were 50 births and 225 deaths.39 Iwanai was designated a depopulated area in 1996.3
Local specialties
| Specialty | Category | Details & where to get it |
|---|---|---|
| Tarako (たらこ) | Seafood | Pollock roe taken the day the fish are landed and cured by local methods; Taramaru is named after it.15 Sold at fish shops and as a furusato nozei gift.361 |
| Salted kazunoko (塩数の子) | Seafood | Herring roe cured with Iwanai deep-sea water. Kazunoko and roe make up 48 of the town's gifts on Furusato Choice (September 2026), more than any other named seafood type.1 |
| Tatsukama (たつかま) | Local dish | Kamaboko made from pollock milt, sold only from November to February, by Ozaki Shōten (尾崎商店).18 |
| Tempura ramen (天ぷらラーメン) | Local dish | Ramen topped with tempura. Salt broth at Sasaya Shokudō (near the roadside station) and Ōhama Shokudō (Route 229, lunch only); soy-sauce broth at Botan Shokudō.394036 |
| Sushi | Seafood | The local catch (sea urchin, abalone, yellowtail, flounder) is served at shops such as Seizushi Honten (清寿司本店).3141 |
| Herring dishes | Seafood | Nishin-meshi (herring rice, cooked with kazunoko, kelp and deep-sea water) won the gold award in the producers' category at the ESSE Furusato Grand Prix in 2019.1 Iwanai Nishin Wajirō is rice-bran-cured herring eaten over rice with tea.42 |
| Sake "Yama" and "Umi" | Sake | Junmai daiginjō Yama (山) and junmai ginjō Umi (海), made from Iwanai-grown rice. Umi won gold in the junmai category at the FY2023 Sapporo Regional Taxation Bureau new-sake competition. A 720 ml bottle costs ¥2,970 (Yama) or ¥2,200 (Umi) at the roadside station.4316 |
| IWANAI BREWERY beer | Beer | Pilsner, IPA, pale ale and stout brewed with deep-sea water. An autumn fresh-hop beer uses hops grown nearby since 2021.35 |
| Asparagus | Vegetable | Iwanai calls itself the birthplace of asparagus growing in Japan.7 Kimobetsu makes the same claim.44 |
| Jingisukan and dairy | Meat and dairy | Marinated jingisukan (grilled mutton), such as the miso version at Satō Shokuniku, plus local cheese and butter.145 |
| Sweets | Sweets | Hand-pounded mochi from Sanmaru Mochi (since 1903) and dorayaki from Shingetsu.4636 |
| Furusato nozei | Gifts | Gifts include ikura (salmon roe), kazunoko, beni-zake (sockeye salmon), dried hokke (Atka mackerel), beer-and-cheese sets, and hot-spring stays.1 |
Culture & festivals
| Event | When | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Cherry blossoms and Gansuien light-up | Late April–early May | The avenue of cherry trees through Iwanai Shrine's three torii is best in early May.2847 Gansuien is lit up on selected evenings.29 |
| Iwanai Shrine Annual Festival (岩内神社例大祭) | 7–9 July | Portable-shrine (mikoshi) processions and a children's procession. The Akasaka Yakko (赤坂奴) lead the procession at sea.282 |
| Iwanai Dotō Festival (いわない怒涛まつり) | Early August (8–9 August in 2026) | Held since 1973.3 About 5,000 fireworks, food stalls, a rice-cake throw (mochimaki) and Raiden Taiko drummers, west of the Iwanai Regional Culture Center.48 |
| Yado Hanabi (宿花火) | 10 August | Fireworks at Iwanai Onsen on "Inn Day".49 |
| Hop season | August–September | The hop arch at the Wild Hop Discovery monument is at its best. The fresh-hop beer comes out in autumn.635 |
| Autumn light-up at Gansuien | Late October | Autumn leaves are lit up at Gansuien, and the ginkgo trees on Teramachi-dōri turn yellow.2928 |
- Akasaka Yakko. This dancing-footman (yakko-buri) procession has been handed down by the town's young men. It is a town-designated intangible folk cultural property.28
- Temples and shrines. Kikōin (帰厚院) is the town's oldest temple. Its 6.8 m gilded wooden Amida Buddha, finished in 1921, is said to be the largest wooden Buddha north of Tokyo. In 1969 it became the town's first designated tangible cultural property.50 Zenshūji (1859) has a Migawari Jizō statue revered by fishing families.51 Kotohira Shrine dates from 1888.52
- Art and literature. Paintings by local artists hang in shops and restaurants.28 A monument on the Raiden coast honors Arishima Takeo.53 Natsume Sōseki's family register was in Iwanai from 1892 to 1914, and a stone marks the address.54
Ainu heritage
Little about Iwanai's Ainu history is documented in municipal or tourism sources. The name is Ainu (see Name origin), and Japanese Wikipedia says the area was a trading center on the Sea of Japan coast during the Ainu cultural period.8 From 1751 the area was run as the Iwanai and Furuu trading posts (basho) under contract to an Ōmi merchant, whose trading house stood in today's Manda.23 No Ainu cultural facility or living tradition in the town was found during research.
Sister & friendship cities
Notable people
- Kida Kinjirō (木田金次郎, 1893–1962): painter and model for Arishima's Umare-izuru Nayami.5
- Shimoda Kikuzō (下田喜久三): agricultural scientist and pioneer of asparagus growing in Japan.78
- Tanabu Chikara (田南部力): freestyle wrestler, bronze medal at the 2004 Athens Olympics.3
- Ikemori Shūichi (池森秀一): lead singer of the band DEEN.8
- Ōsawa Tetsuo (大沢鉄男): cyclist at the 1956 and 1960 Olympics.8
- Nakajima Miyuki (中島みゆき): singer-songwriter who lived in Iwanai from age 5 to 11.8
- Natsume Sōseki (夏目漱石): novelist whose family register was in Iwanai for 22 years.54
Sources
Numbers in the text link to these sources. Figures as of 23 September 2026
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